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Peter - ICH

Posted By: Mr Leadfoot <leadfoot@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Tuesday, 19 November 2002, at 1:41 a.m.

As you know, I've personally had some serious battles with ICH, and today I just did my last dose on two tanks. Both tanks seemed to take a full 10 days for the cysts to disappear this time.

One thing different compared to your treatment is that I gradually raised by temps to 86 - 88 degrees. No fish have been harmed by this high temp, and I previously have done this several times.

The fish in my tanks, where I treated for ICH with Seachem's Paraguard and the high temps are:

Clown loache
Botia Striata
Corydoras Adolfoi
Black Molly
Mickey Mouse Platy
Siamese Algae Eater
Bristle-nose Pleco
Rubber-nose Pleco
Cactus Leopard Pleco
Panaqolus (butterfly pleco)

Although I didn't use salt this time around, I have in the past, even with plants that include:

Java Fern
Amazon Sword
Brazilian Sword
Pothos
Anubias Willisi

Just thought you might get something out of my experience.

Oh, I also thought you might be interested in knowing that although ICH in the water will die in 48 hours without a host, and high temps will speed their life cycle once they've fallen off the fish and are reproducing, some cysts on fish for some reason can take quite a long time to reach maturity. Why, I don't know. But, sometimes people will also tell you that ICH meds will kill the cysts on fish, but that is scientifically proven to NOT be the case. The ICH is very well protected against meds in the water when in its cyst.

Also, some fish will become so infected that the ICH need not fall off the fish to multiply. The ICH can do so without leaving the fish. I read that recently in a scientific report Basher posted a link to not too long ago.

In the case of your clown becoming more infested and lethargic, I think you may want to start addressing the possibility that he may not make it due to his worsening condition. If it were me, and the fish was a favorite:

If all other fish seem strong and healthy, and you have the time, you might want to think about raising the temp to 88, doing 50% water changes 12 hours after dosing, and dosing a FULL dose again at that point. I've done this without harming fish with Maracide, QuickCure, and Paraguard, and in all cases it seemed to help.

Further, at the risk of getting flamed, now you know why some people, like me, believe in prophylactically treating for ICH when introducing new fish into your tanks. Some, again like me, do this prophylactic treatment in q-tine.

This is not to say that I have not added fish to a q-tank without meds. Like Drew, I recently added a striata to a q-tank, which seemed fine for two weeks. Just when I thought I was safe, the fish came down with ICH.

Now, here's the interesting part. The one fish that for me ALWAYS seem to get ICH when they're new are clowns and striatas. Although other fish can get ICH, too, I never seem to have problems with cories. Go figure. When I got my platys, otos, plecos, mollies and barbs, they didn't get ICH until a loach got it first. Go figure again! :-)

Kelvin
 

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